Jack of all Inverts

Caresheets

Ghost Mantis (Phyllocrania paradoxa)

Size

Females up to 6cm (2.5in)
Males up to 5.5cm (2in)

Moisture

30-50% humidity, can tolerate higher
Spray daily or every other day

Temperature

22-27°C (72-80°F)
Prefers room temp or warmer, tolerates as low as 65°F.

Sexing

A trained eye can sex Ghosts by their crown at i2. Sexually dimorphic crown differences are easily distinguished at i3. Males will have a longer, more jagged crest, and females a rounder and wider one. Females have 6 abdominal segments, and males have 8.

Lifespan

After molting to adult, females will last 6-8 months. Males generally last only 2-4 months. Lifespans can often vary due to things such as diet, rate of feeding, and temperature. The colder it is, the slower they grow.

Instars

Both males and females mature at i8 and molt 7 times after hatching.

Feeding

Ghosts can be finicky and prefer flying prey. Fast roaches are also easy to feed with. Offer food when the abdomen is thin. Do not feed on a schedule. 

Enclosure

Zilla enclosures work well if properly modified with mesh. Make sure any added mesh is taut and not loose. DIY setups are also popular because of this. When making a setup, try to add cross ventilation. When decorating your setup, avoid clutter and low hanging branches to prevent mismolts. Enclosures should be at least 2 times as wide as the mantis is long and 3 times as tall as the mantis is long. This will give them space to molt.

Here are some guidelines:

Breeding

About 3 weeks after maturing to adulthood a female should be ready to breed. 2 weeks after molting a male should be ready. Sexual cannabalism is rare, but can happen.
Females are ooth printing presses once paired. They will lay around 10-13 ootheca, generally laying one every other week. Depending on size, each ootheca could hatch anywhere from 5-40 nymphs.

Other Information

This species of mantis may drastically change colors between molts. Ghosts also can and will play dead. Sudden movements may cause them to drop to the ground. Sometimes they are very convincing in their death feining, but most times they'll still grab right onto your finger and seemingly pop back to life like nothing happened.


Budwing Mantis (Parasphendale agrionina)

Size

Females up to 7cm (3in)
Males up to 4cm (1.5in)

Moisture

i1-i3 should be kept more humid, 60-70% humidity
40-60% humidity, Spray daily or every other day

Temperature

22-28°C (72-82°F)

Sexing

Budwings can be sexed at i4 with a magnifying glass but can be easily sexed by a glance at i5. Females have 6 abdominal segments, and males have 8. Females have a wider abdomen and males are thinner and more lithe. Adult males are very thin with long antennae while females are very stocky and have reduced wings, hence their common name.

Lifespan

After molting to adult, females will last 6-8 months. Males generally last only 2-4 months. Lifespans can often vary due to things such as diet, rate of feeding, and temperature. The colder it is, the slower they grow.

Instars

Males molt 8 times and mature at i9, females molt 9 times and mature at i10. 

Feeding

Budwings are great eaters. They are very aggressive and will actively chase down their prey. They are not picky about feeder types.

Enclosure

Zilla enclosures work well if properly modified with mesh. Make sure any added mesh is taut and not loose. DIY setups are also popular because of this. When making a setup, try to add cross ventilation. When decorating your setup, avoid clutter and low hanging branches to prevent mismolts. Enclosures should be at least 2 times as wide as the mantis is long and 3 times as tall as the mantis is long. This will give them space to molt.

Here are some guidelines:

Breeding

About 3 weeks after maturing to adulthood a female should be ready to breed. For males, 2 weeks after molting should be enough time. Sexual cannabalism can happen.
This species can lay around 4-6 oothecae. Each ootheca can hatch as many as 150 nymphs.

Other Info

Adult female budwings may come with some serious attitude! Expect her to dazzle you with a brilliant threat pose and maybe even smack at you! Adult males may fly around their setup (or your house)! Budwings are also more prone to overeating, so make sure your feeders are appropriately sized.


European Mantis (Mantis religiosa)

Size

Females up to 9cm (3.5in)
Males up to 7cm (2.7in)

Moisture

Higher humidity for i1-i3, Spray daily
For i4+, 50% humidity, Spray every other day.

Temperature

26.6-32.2°C (80-90°F)

Sexing

After i4, females will have a clearly defined 6 segments, while males will have 8. Adult males are very thin with long antennae while females are very stocky.

Lifespan

After molting to adult, females will last 6-8 months. Males generally last only 2-4 months. Lifespans can often vary due to things such as diet, rate of feeding, and temperature. The colder it is, the slower they grow.

Instars

This species can molt to adulthood between i7 and i9. Males generally mature one instar earlier than females.

Feeding

This species is very aggressive and is not picky about prey. Feed them often to encourage growth.

Enclosure

Zilla enclosures work well if properly modified with mesh. Make sure any added mesh is taut and not loose. DIY setups are also popular because of this. When making a setup, try to add cross ventilation. When decorating your setup, avoid clutter and low hanging branches to prevent mismolts. Enclosures should be at least 2 times as wide as the mantis is long and 3 times as tall as the mantis is long. This will give them space to molt.
These mantises may do better when molting to adulthood on an incline rather than a horizontal surface, such as a mesh pyramid, as they are used to molting on grasses and other field plants. Large adult females may need a bigger setup than a 32oz.

Here are some guidelines:

Other Info:

The European Mantis can be found on all continents except Antarctica. They are an incredibly cannibalistic species. Do not cohabitate them and separate nymphs early. A newly hatched ootheca can experience cannibalism in as little as 12 hours after hatching. Cannibalism during pairing is a common occurrence in this species. Oothecae need diapause, a chill period, over the winter to hatch. This can be simulated in a fridge. 


African Twig Mantis (Popa spurca)

Size

7-8cm (2.75-3in)

Moisture

50-60% Humidity

Temperature

22-30°C (72-86°F)

Sexing

Can be sexed by abdominal segments at i4+. Females will have 6 while males will have 8. Males will have a longer pale patch on the underside tip of their abdomens.

Lifespan

After molting to adult, females will last 6-8 months. Males generally last only 3-4 months. Lifespans can often vary due to things such as diet, rate of feeding, and temperature. The colder it is, the slower they grow.

Instars

Males mature at i8 and molt 7 times and females at i10, molting 9 times.

Feeding

This species is an ambush predator, choosing to mimic sticks and often waiting for food to come to it. They may still chase down food if hungry, however.

Enclosure

Zilla enclosures work well if properly modified with mesh. Make sure any added mesh is taut and not loose. DIY setups are also popular because of this. When making a setup, try to add cross ventilation. When decorating your setup, avoid clutter and low hanging branches to prevent mismolts. Enclosures should be at least 2 times as wide as the mantis is long and 3 times as tall as the mantis is long. This will give them space to molt.

Here are some guidelines:

Other Info:

When disturbed, individuals will hold their arms in front of them and freeze to mimic a twig.


Asian Flower Mantis (Creobroter apicalis)

Size

3-5cm (1.25-2in)

Moisture

50-60%
Spray daily

Temperature

21-28°C (70-83°F)

Sexing

Individuals can be sexed by counting abdomen segments. Females will have 6 and males will have 8. i5 onwards it’s very easy to tell females from males because females have a very prominent ovipositor.

Lifespan

After molting to adult, females will last 6-8 months. Males generally last only 2-4 months. Lifespans can often vary due to things such as diet, rate of feeding, and temperature. The colder it is, the slower they grow.

Instars

Males can molt to adulthood between i7 and i8, while females will molt to adulthood at i8. There will generally be an instar difference.

Feeding

Feeding is easy as these are a very agressive species and willing to hunt down their prey. Males tend to be slightly more skittish than females when it comes to feeding.

Enclosure

Zilla enclosures work well if properly modified with mesh. Make sure any added mesh is taut and not loose. DIY setups are also popular because of this. When making a setup, try to add cross ventilation. When decorating your setup, avoid clutter and low hanging branches to prevent mismolts. Enclosures should be at least 2 times as wide as the mantis is long and 3 times as tall as the mantis is long. This will give them space to molt.

Here are some guidelines:

Other Info:

These mantises partially mimic flowers and may change color drastically between molts.


Dead Leaf Mantis (Deroplatys gorochovi)

Size

Females up to 8.25cm (3.25in)
Males up to 6.4cm (2.5in)

Moisture

Humidity 60-80%
Spray daily or every other day

Temperature

23-29°C (74-85°F)

Sexing

Deroplatys have different protonum shapes depending on the sex. Stages i3+ can be sexed reliably by protonum shape, or simply by counting the ventral segments. 6 for female, 8 for male. Females will develop hooks on the pronotum.

Lifespan

After molting to adult, females will last 6-12 months. Males should last between 4-8 months. Deroplatys sp. females can be quite long lived. Lifespans can often vary due to things such as diet, rate of feeding, and temperature. The colder it is, the slower they grow.

Instars

Males generally mature at i7, molting 6 times. Females mature at i8 and molt 7 times.

Feeding

More prone to easily being spooked by feeders. Generally not picky about prey, but seem to love moths.

Enclosure

Zilla enclosures work well if properly modified with mesh. Make sure any added mesh is taut and not loose. DIY setups are also popular because of this. When making a setup, try to add cross ventilation. When decorating your setup, avoid clutter and low hanging branches to prevent mismolts. Enclosures should be at least 2 times as wide as the mantis is long and 3 times as tall as the mantis is long. This will give them space to molt.

Here are some guidelines:

Other Info:

When disturbed, this leaf-like species is known to drop to the ground and play dead.


Northern Grass Mantis (Brunneria borealis)

Size

Females up to 77cm (3in)

Moisture

65% Humidity
Spray daily

Temperature

22-30°C (72-86°F)

Sexing

This species is ALWAYS female.

Lifespan

After molting to adult, they will last 6-8 months.

Instars

This species generally matures at i8 or i9.

Feeding

Can be very clumbsy when hunting, but are very determined. It is best to offer flying prey.

Enclosure

Brunneria prefer a large assortment of sticks to exist in or at least semi dense grass-like foliage. Enclosures should be at least 2 times as wide as the mantis is long and 3 times as tall as the mantis is long. This will give them space to molt. Mesh butterfly pop-ups are commonly used for older individuals.

Here are some guidelines:

Other Info:

This species is entirely made up of females and reproduces through parthenogenesis. Oothecae will take several months to hatch (~6-9). This species also has severely reduced wings, almost to a comical level.


Bold/Regal Jumping Spider (Phidippus audax & P. regius) 

Size

Female Bold up to 19mm (0.75in)
Male Bold up to 13mm (0.5in)

Female Regal up to 22mm (0.86in)
Male Regal up to 18mm (0.7in)

Moisture

50% humidity
Spray daily or every other day. Lightly mist their setup, large water drops can drown spiders.

Temperature

20-29.5°C (68-85°F); prefers room temp or warmer, tolerates as low as 65°F.

Sexing

In Bold Jumpers, both males and females have green pedipalps. Body morphology is the best way to sex them, as males will grow longer arms and females will have stockier bodies. Bryantae Bold females generally show their colors around i6 and older as well.
In Regal Jumpers, males always have green chelicerae and females typically have a purple/pink. Females generally begin to display color at i6 and this becomes more prominent as they age. Body morphology is telling with males having longer arms and females becoming stockier in the body.

When adult, female jumping spiders will have an epigyne or epigynum, or “epi” for short. This appears as a shiny black spot under a mature female's abdomen.

Lifespan

Lifespans for both sexes of both species are generally a range between 8 months to 2 years. There's been instances of some living up to 3 years in captivity.

Instars

Most jumping spiders can have anywhere from 8 to 11 instars, potentially more. Audax seems to have more variation in instars compared to regius. I do not sell any spiders younger than i5.

When preparing to molt a jumping spider’s abdomen will appear large and very round. They will begin to heavily web up a safe area to create a place to molt, known as a molt hammock. These can often be so thick that you can’t see the spider inside. They can re-use this hammock for a few molts before making another. Offer more water if you see that they’re in premolt, but otherwise leave them alone. After a day or two has passed post-molt, the spider will often kick the molt out of the nest and begin to explore again.

Feeding

Feeding is often simple, just drop feeders into the spider’s setup and watch as they take notice and begin hunting. A good rule of thumb for appropriate sized prey will be ¾ to 1.5 of the size of a spider. Feed them when the abdomen appears thin. Remove any uneaten food from a potentially premolt sling to avoid stressing them out. Jumping spiders can sometimes go weeks without food, but I offer them water often.

Enclosure

Some spiders prefer smaller containers, so if you upsize them and notice they stop eating, try sizing them back down. I recommend adding cross ventilation through meshed vents or poke ventilation. It is important to make sure getting into your setup doesn’t involve destroying too many webs. Zilla enclosures are not recommended as jumping spiders can slip through them.

Breeding

When a mature male spots a female, he will begin to wave his arms around to impress her. This dance can last anywhere from a few minutes to a half hour, and sometimes a female won’t be receptive. She will attempt to warn him or bite at the air, using a paintbrush to separate them. When a female is receptive she will be flipped by the male and they will mate. Mating can take anywhere from 10 minutes to over an hour in my experience. Sexual cannabalism is rare but can happen, especially if a female is reactive.

Other Information

Jumping spiders are surprisingly intelligent and personable. They are very curious and eager to explore if given the option to. Some will warm up to handling, others may not like it as much.
These spiders can jump up to 6 times their body length in distance. Phidippus sp. Jumpers love to sunbathe and enjoy bright light. Do not keep them in the dark. I recommend having them on 12/12 timed lights. These creatures can live to be from between 18 months to 2 years in age.


Northern Black Widow (Latrodectus variolus)

Size

Females up to 11mm (0.43in) not including legs
Males up to 5mm (0.2in) not including legs

Moisture

40-60% humidity
Spray weekly

Temperature

21-25.5°C (70-78°F)
Can tolerate periods of temperatures slightly lower than 65°F.

Sexing

Males have orb-like pediplps and longer legs, females lack round pedipalps and are usually more robust in the abdomen.
Adult males are much smaller, have white markings, and very long legs. Adult females are much larger, and display a black abdomen with red markings including the signature broken hourglass.

Lifespan

Females generally live for 18+ months, but can sometimes live up to 3 years in captivity. Once males molt to adulthood, they only live for 2-3 months.

Instars

Female black widows molt to adulthood after 8 or 9 molts, while males generally 7 or 8.

Feeding

Most moisture is gained through food. Webs are very sticky and used to trap prey.

Enclosure

A 32oz deli container or a 4x4x7 in enclosure is usually enough space for an adult black widow. Black widows prefer dark, enclosed areas with lots of places to attach their webs.

Breeding

When breeding, the male will deposit sperm into the reproductive organ on the underside of her abdomen. After mating, the male will attempt to run from the female. Sexual cannabalism can happen.

Other Information

This species of spider is venomous, but bites are rare and often inject little venom. Fatal bites are exceedinly rare, as the spiders themselves are very timid. Males and slings cannot easily bite you. I have no fear of getting bit as bites are a last-ditch effort. To minimalize stress to the animals, I rarely (if ever) handle my widows.


Northern Walking Stick (Diapheromera femorata)

Size

Females up to 9.5cm (3.7in)
Males up to 7.5cm (3in)

Moisture

50-70% humidity

Spray daily, they enjoy a good drink

Early instars need higher humidity 

Temperature

22-27°C (72-80°F)

Sexing

Sexable at i4/i5. Males will begin to develop claspers, pincer-like circi at the tip of the abdomen. Females will grow larger and more robust, and have a tapered abdomen. Females will develop a flat-end segment. Adult males are brown; females are greenish-brown and larger.

Lifespan

They appear to live anywhere from 4-6 months, including nymph stages. Mine generally follow the leaves, existing May-October. They naturally expire in time for the leaves to drop.

Instars

It is believed that they molt 7 times, maybe more. Phasmids eat their molts, so it's harder to track them. They molt similarly to a mantis, so please provide 4 times the length of the animal in molting space. Once they hit a larger instar they start growing FAST.

Feeding

Young nymphs (i1/i2) may need their leaves torn or cut to allow easier eating. Replace leaves every 1-3 days depending on their state. Keep fresh leaves always available 24/7. Snip branches and keep the ends in a container of freshwater to keep them good longer. This species consumes Oak (Quercus sp.). I have successfully raised mine on white (Q. alba) and northern red (Q. rubra) with the occasional offering of pin oak (Q. palustris). Other varieties of oak are likely to work as well. 

Enclosure

Estimates for enclosure size are based on a cohabitated group of 10-15. For large volumes of phasmids, I reccomend upsizing early and using a 24x24x36 inch pop up. Bigger will not hurt.

Make sure fresh leaves are always available and that the container of water your leaves are in is sturdy. All of my individuals are cohabitated, never aggressive. They do however walk over each other, so I provide plenty of space for multiple individuals. 

Breeding

Males will hitch a ride on the back of a female and connect abdomen for several hours. They are polygynandrous; females will mate many times with many males. One female can produce over 250 eggs each. Oviposition begins in late August, peaks during mid-September, and tails off at the end of September. Females will continue to lay until late October until most of the green foliage is no longer present.

Other Information

These hatched after a chilled diapause of ~3 months+. Leave them to overwinter outside in a container or put them in a fridge. Make sure leaves are available when you pull them out of cold storage. I have occasionally noted an odd straggler that hatches way after others, often many months behind. I am still looking into this oddity.
Yes, they do the dance. Yes, you will get stickbugged.


Domino Roach (Therea petiveriana)

Size

Females up to 35mm (1.4in)
Males up to 25mm (0.9in)

Moisture

50% humidity

Keep the substrate damp, not wet, with average water content. Allow the top layer of substrate to dry out before adding more water. Directly add water to the soil to re-hydrate your roach bin. Give them a wetter and a dryer side to their enclosure to allow a moisture gradient. Additional water can be provided through food. There should be enough ventilation to make sure the soil is able to dry, and it shouldn’t be too humid.

Temperature

22-29.5°C (72-85°F)

The warmer they are, the quicker they grow.

Sexing

At adulthood, males have longer hairy antennae, while females have short straight antennae.

Lifespan

These roaches are slow growers. If kept at ~75°F it may take them 1.25-2 years to grow from birth to adulthood. If kept much warmer, they can mature in ~6-8 months. Adults can sometimes live for as long as 6 months past adult molt.

Feeding

These insects feed primarily on dried leaves, but love small bits of protein-based pet foods. I offer a variety of kitchen scraps such as apples, bananas, carrots, potato/sweet potato, celery, romaine lettuce, beet greens, cabbage, broccoli and other fruits and veggies. A thick layer of leaf litter should always be available to your dominos and replaced when consumed. I mainly use oak leaves that I personally collect and sell too. Offer cuttlebone chunks for calcium.

Enclosure

I use a large sealed plastic Sterelite Gasket Box with one large hole cut for ventilation covered by windowscreen at the top. I have a petrolium jelly barrier to keep in the adults. Domino roaches need several inches of substrate as they are a burrowing roach. I use organic peat or flake soil with added leaves, sphagnum moss and charcoal. You could additionlly add coco choir for slightly more water retention. I provide my dominos with substrate at least 4-6 inches deep. Make sure whatever container/setup you use is deep enough for burrowing. I have bark chunks set on top of the substrate, under the leaf litter for extra cover.

Breeding

Females will breed with a male and proceed to kick away other potential suitors. Females are oviparous and will produce as many as 13 ootheca that will each yield as many as 16 nymphs.

Other Information

These roaches are beetle mimics! Nymphs and adults stay round and clumsy. They’re often burrowed in the substrate, so you may not see them much. Domino roaches get their names from their adult forms’ signature black and white spotted wings. They cannot fly.


Lobster Roach (Nauphoeta cinerea)

Size

Adults measure up to 30mm (~1.25 in)
Newly hatched roaches measure about 1/8" long.
Size variation in adults is common.

Moisture

40-60% Humidity
Spray a few times a week

Temperature

20-30°C (68-86°F)

Sexing

Males are generally smaller and females are much wider and thicker. The abdomen on a female roach will have an extra two white dots near the tip.

Lifespan

Nymphs molt several times. Generally this roach can live up to 1 to 2 years as an adult. A very hardy feeder, Lobster roaches can mature quickly if fed well and kept warm.

Feeding

I provide a cup with protein rich food such as dog or cat kibble; fish pellets work well too. I provide a cup with water-rich food or water crystals for long-term leave. I offer a variety of kitchen scraps such as apples, bananas, carrots, potato/sweet potato, celery, romaine lettuce, beet greens, cabbage, broccoli and other fruits and veggies. They will generally inhale these items with voracity, with large populations they can eat it in a few hours. They will also eat the oats used as substrate.

Enclosure

I use a large sealed plastic Sterelite Gasket Box with one large hole cut for ventilation covered by windowscreen at the top. I have a 1-3" petrolium jelly barrier around the entire top of the rim to prevent escapes. I use an inch thick layer of oats as a substrate and provide paper towel and toilet rolls as hides. Cardboard or egg cartons also works well. If you wwish, you can forgo oats and they will be fine without a substrate, or you could use one that better retains humidity. A simple container such as this can cause an explosion of life. You can add a small heat pad to increase growth, but I find this isn't needed. Overall, maintenance is minimal: remove extra food before it rots, replace the oats when turned to frass, and add fresh hides occasionally.

Breeding

Very easy and quick to breed. Simply obtain individuals of each sex and wait until the female gives birth to multiple ovoviviparous litters. Keep them warmer to encourage more growth. These cockroaches live about one year, can mate about six days after becoming adults, and produce six broods of about 30 eggs per year.

Other Information

Lobster roaches can climb smooth surfaces. They can glide, but no true flight is possible. These buggers are also super fast, which may make harvesting them a challenge! This also makes them a great feeder for motion-sensitive predators.
This species of roach is very hardy and can tolerate neglect to a point. Grain substrate can sustain a population for a vacation as long as some sort of hydration is provided.
Escaped individuals have a very small potential infest houses due to their hardiness. Always use a rim barrier.


Pallid Roach (Phoetalia pallida)

Size

Adults measure up to 20mm (0.78 inch)

Moisture

40-50% Humidity
Spray twice a week

Temperature

21-30°C (70-86°F)

Sexing

Females are just a bit bigger and wider than males, which are more slender and active.

Lifespan

It is estimated that these adults can live up to a year in captivity.

Feeding

I provide a cup with protein rich food such as dog or cat kibble; fish pellets work well too. I provide a cup with water-rich food or water crystals for long-term leave. I offer a variety of kitchen scraps such as apples, bananas, carrots, potato/sweet potato, celery, romaine lettuce, beet greens, cabbage, broccoli and other fruits and veggies.

Enclosure

I use a large sealed plastic Sterelite Gasket Box with one large hole cut for ventilation covered by windowscreen at the top. I have a 1" petrolium jelly barrier around the entire top of the rim to prevent escapes.

Breeding

Breeding is easy, simply add adults to an optimal setup and keep them warm and fed. Females are oviviparous and will give live birth to nymphs.

Other Information

Adults of this species cannot fly, but can glide. They can climb up smooth walls.
Escaped individuals will not infest houses and desiccate quickly when out of their proper setups.


Fulvous Wood Roach (Parcoblatta fulvescens)

Size

Adults measure up to 18mm (0.7 inch)

Moisture

60-70% Humidity
Spray every other day

Temperature

22-31°C (72-88°F)
Can tolerate it as low as 65°F

Sexing

Adult males will be golden in color with long wings, while adult females will look like large nymphs with vestigial wings.

Lifespan

It is estimated that these adults can live up to a year in captivity.

Feeding

I provide a cup with protein rich food such as dog or cat kibble; fish pellets work well too. I provide a cup with water-rich food or water crystals for long-term leave. I offer a variety of kitchen scraps such as apples, bananas, carrots, potato/sweet potato, celery, romaine lettuce, beet greens, cabbage, broccoli and other fruits and veggies.

Enclosure

I use a large sealed plastic Sterelite Gasket Box with two small holes cut for ventilation covered by windowscreen at the top. I have a 1" petrolium jelly barrier around the entire top of the rim to prevent escapes. I reccomend keeping these on substrate. Coco choir, peat, flake soil or sterilized soil would work. Moss should be added to a quarter of the enclosure and kept wet to retain humidity.

Breeding

Breeding is easy, simply add adults to an optimal setup and keep them warm and fed. Females are oviparous and will lay oothecae. Females will lay multiple in their lifetime, and a sucessful colony will lead to ooths littering the ground.

Other Information

This species is capable of expelling a sticky substence from their abdomen as a predator detterent. This does not hinder their use as feeders as predators will learn to go for the head.
Adult males of this species are capable of flight. Adults of both sexes can walk up smooth walls, while nymphs can't.
Escaped individuals will not infest houses and desiccate quickly when out of their proper setups.


Buffalo Beetle (Alphitobius diaperinus)

Size

Adults roughly 6.3mm long. Larvae max at 7-11mm long.

Moisture

50% Humidity
Supply moisture through food

Temperature

22-30°C (72-86°F)

Lifespan

Adults may live from 3 months up to a year. Larvae may take 40-100 dys to mature depending on conditions.

Instars

There are believed to be between 6 and 11 larval instars.

Feeding

I keep them on oats, but often provide fruits and veggies, pet kibble/fish food. Remove uneaten food before it molds. They will eat the corpses of dead inverts.

Enclosure

I keep them alone in a ventilated plastic shoebox with oat substrate and various layers of carboard for larvae and pupae to live in. I also keep these in my Lobster and Pallid roach enclosures, and plan to keep them with Dubia too. These guys help eat up uneaten food, insect corpses and fungi.

Breeding

Adult femlales will lay roughly 200 eggs. Young will be produced fast in optimal conditions. Feed them often or simply forget about them as CUC in a setup and wait for millions of worms.

Other Information

This species is a great clean up crew for oviviparious (live birth) roaches. Do NOT use with oviparious (ooth-bearing) roaches, as buffalo worms will eat oothecae.
This species is versitle and has been found in a variety of environments. It has even been found living in bat caves.


Panda King Isopod (Cubaris sp. “Panda King”)

Size

1-2 cm

Moisture

80% humidity, allow a gradient of moisture from wet to dry soil

Temperature

22-26°C (72-78°F)

Sexing

Females will have a brood pouch and when pregnant, young can easily be seen from within.

Lifespan

It is estimated that the full life of an isopod can be between 2-3 years.

Instars

Isopods molt in two parts, and will keep growing and molting until death. Young isopods will molt quicker than older individuals. They will eat their molts after.

Feeding

I always provide my isopods with leaves and rotting wood as a staple, but often provide fruits and veggies, pet kibble, fish food, and sometimes dried fish or shrimp. I offer cuttlebone chunks or ground eggshells for calcium. Remove uneaten food before it molds. You don’t need to feel isopods daily, but it’s a good idea to add supplemental foods other than leaf litter at least once a week. 

Enclosure

For all of my isopods, I generally use a mix of organic peat, decayed wood, flake soil, sphagnum moss, garden compost, chopped and whole leaves, as well as calcium carbohydrate or eggshells. Coco coir can be used as a filler for water retention, but is mostly inedible fiber. Ensure that your isopods have access to moist hides and substrate to provide the necessary moisture. For hides, I use chunks of cork or oak bark. Ventilation should be present but minimal to maintain proper moisture.

Breeding

If kept warm and wet enough, panda kings will produce steadily. They are a quicker breeding Cubaris and can quickly proliferate. In a year I went from 35 to 300 individuals.

Other Information

The best beginner cubaris, in my opinion. This is a popular species in the hobby due to its panda-like markings, cute face, and its ability to conglobate (roll into a ball!) 
I keep these with my fulvous roaches. They share a bin, and both are very prolific.


Common Rough Woodlouse (Porcellio scaber)

Size

Up to 20mm (0.79in) in length

Moisture

50-60% Humidity
Drought tolerent

Temperature

18.3-26.6°C (65-80°F)

Sexing

Females will have a brood pouch and when pregnant, young can easily be seen from within. Calico individuals are often female due to genetics.

Lifespan

Young of this species can mature in as little as 3 months. Adult individuals may live for 2-3 years in captivity.

Instars

Isopods molt in two parts, and will keep growing and molting until death. Young isopods will molt quicker than older individuals. They eat their molts.

Feeding

This is a very protein hungry species. They may very well prefer animal products to plant ones. I always provide my isopods with leaves and rotting wood as a staple, but often provide fruits and veggies, pet kibble, fish food, and sometimes dried fish or shrimp. Particuarly robust colonies could even be used to skeletonize small mammals.

Enclosure

For all of my isopods, I generally use a mix of organic peat, decayed wood, flake soil, sphagnum moss, garden compost, chopped and whole leaves, as well as calcium carbohydrate or eggshells. Coco coir can be used as a filler for water retention, but is mostly inedible fiber. Ensure that your isopods have access to moist hides and substrate to provide the necessary moisture. For hides, I use chunks of cork or oak bark. Ventilation should be present.

Breeding

If kept well fed, P. scaber will produce quickly. In 2 years from keeping ~40 individuals I had surpassed counts of 600. Females carry 25-90 fertilized eggs in a pouch on their abdomen. When the babies have developed, they will leave the pouch and huddle around the parent.

Other Information

This species is great for beginners due to their hardiness. It is easy to cultivate and available in a wide variety of color morphs. Research is still being done into their genetics and new combinations are discovered often. This is a cosmopolitan species that has found its way around much of the globe.


Luna Moth (Actias luna)

Size

Caterpillars up to 90mm (3.5in)
Moth wingspan up to 114mm (4.5in)

Moisture

50% humidity
No spraying needed, all moisture needed is provided through fresh leaves.

Temperature

65-77°F (18-25°C)

Sexing

You cannot sex a caterpillar, but can sex a pupae with effort and a trained eye. Males will have bigger antennae and females will have a notch on the abdomen.
Sexual dimorphism in adults is present as males will have fuzzier antenna and a thinner frame while females will appear very rotund.

Lifespan

The life cycle of a Luna moth can be between 6 months to 1 year, depending on if diapaused. Luna moth adults only live for about one week and do not eat.

Instars

Slow growing, molting 5 times as a caterpillar throughout the year until fall. Prepupal caterpillars will show a proment line down the center and may often pick up a reddish tone. Fully grown caterpillars will spin a silk cocoon between leaves, go dormant for winter, and eclose the following spring.

Feeding

From hatch they will devour host species such as Sweet Gum, Hickory, Black Walnut , Sumac, and Persimmon. Clean any buildup of waste when you add new feed. Replace feed every 1-2 days. Try to stick to one host species as they can be finniky about transitioning.

Enclosure

Eggs can be hatched in a sealed container. Browse should be introduced once caterpillars hatch. Young caterpillars can be housed in a 32oz deli container, but once they start to rapidly gain mass, it's time to move them into a mesh pop up. Avoid overcrowding in later instars. Ends of branches can be snipped and placed in water to remain fresh.

Breeding

Males will fly to find females sniffing with their antennae as the females remain seditary and call for a mate. He will connect to her, abdomen to abdomen and remain often for several hours. Then the female will lay several hundred blood-cell like eggs.

Other Information

Pupae can be overwintered to hatch the following season by exposing the pupae to temperatures under 40°F.


Giant Leopard Moth (Hypercompe scribonia)

Size

Caterpillars up to 7.6cm (3in)
Male moths up to 51mm (2 in)
Female moths up to 30mm (1.2 in)

Moisture

50% humidity
No spraying needed, all moisture needed is provided through fresh leaves.

Temperature

72-78°F (22-26°C)

Sexing

You cannot sex a caterpillar, but can sex a pupae with effort and a trained eye. Sexual dimorphism in adults is mainly in size, but males will have fuzzier antenna and a thinner frame.

Lifespan

In total: 8 months-2 years, including potential winter diapause. Caterpillars will eat speadily for several months. Adult moths generally live only 8–10 days and do not feed.

Instars

Slow growing, molting many times as a caterpillar throughout the year until fall. Nearly grown caterpillars will overwinter, then pupate and eclose the following spring.

Feeding

From hatch they will devour various species of plants as they are polyphagous. I have offered them dandelion, plantain, wild lettuce, maple, and willow. There are many available host species, see here. Clean any buildup of waste when you add new feed. Replace feed every 1-2 days.

Enclosure

Young caterpillars can be housed in a 32oz deli container, but once they start to lose their orange banding it's time to move them into a mesh pop up. Avoid overcrowding in later instars. Ends of branches can be snipped and placed in water to remain fresh.

Breeding

This species can remain in copulation for periods of over 24 hours. After this, the female will lay several hundred small pearly eggs.

Other Information

Also known as the giant wooly bear, this species’ caterpillars are black and fuzzy with red bands. The adults of this species do not eat, they simply seek females/call males, mate and lay eggs. Every year there is one brood of this species in the north, and two in the south.


Greater Waxmoth (Galleria mellonella)

Size

Caterpillars range from 3 to 30mm long
Moths range from 10 to 19mm long
Size of moths is dependent on amount of diet consumed

Moisture

29-33%
Do not add additional moisture

Temperature

85-91°F (29-33°C)
Do not chill or heat past 105°F (40.5°C)
Room temperature (73°F/23°C) cultures may not grow properly

Sexing

Female moths are typically larger than males, and males are usually lighter in color. Male moths have an indentation on the front of the wing

Pupae can be sexed near the tip of their abdomen by either a small slit (female) or a pair of rounded knobs (male)

Lifespan

Males live for an average of 21 days while females live for 12 days on average. Time spent as a caterpillar depends on temperature, but they can mature in as little as 28 days.

Instars

Caterpillars will grow and molt several times. Pupae can develop in as little as 8 days in a warm climate.

Feeding

Keep food constantly present to grow the biggest feeders

Adult moths do not eat as they have reduced mouthparts

Growth

If kept hot, these moths can go from egg to moth in about a month with the larval stage only being 20 days

Enclosure

A 32oz deli container with a metal mesh lid, packed half way with substrate with added egg cartons, paper towel rolls, or waxpaper

Breeding

Male moths will beat their wings to attract females, calling with sound waves. They will remain connected often for several hours. One gravid female can lay over 1000 eggs, but more often somewhere around 500

Other Information

In the wild, G. mellonella larvae parasitize the honeybee, living inside of the hive and feeding off the bee's resources. Despite the opportunity to, they never eat bee larvae.

Waxworm Diet Recipe

Ingredients: Rolled Oats, Gerber Rice Baby Food, Wheat Germ, Beeswax, Bee Pollen, Corn Syrup, Honey

Directions:

  1. Mix your dry ingredients in equal parts (Rolled Oats, Wheat Germ, and Rice Baby Food).
  2. Add optional additives to your liking. Beeswax and Bee Pollen are what I add.
  3. Stir until everything is evenly mixed.
  4. Add both wet ingredients and stir in or mash in until the consistency can pack down, but doesn't tightly cling to your hands. It should be faintly sticky and clumping, but not dripping.
  5. Move medium into a 32oz deli container with a METAL mesh lid, or another DIY plastic container. I've found the hard way that waxworms can eat through fabric lids and even mesh pop ups.
  6. Pack it down and poke holes into it with a toothpick. This allows the moths to lay eggs easier.
  7. Add paper towel rolls, egg cartons or wax paper to provide places for caterpillars to cocoon.
  8. Add 10+ or so moths/pupae of both sexes to your cup. If you have larvae, you can add those instead.
  9. Set your 32oz on a heat pad set at ~85-95°F. They are designed to live inside beehives. Note that 114°F is too hot and will begin to kill them and that temperatures too low will stunt growth. Temperatures 65°F and under should be avoided. Do NOT put your waxworms in the fridge if you intend to raise moths.
  10. Keep feeding your waxworms constantly to get the biggest moths (¾ an inch), or cut them off of food early to get miniature moths ¼ the size. This allows them to be diverse feeders for various predators of many instars.

TIPS & TRICKS: LIVE FEEDER NOTES